Did you know that there is an
island in the Indian Ocean that seems to belong to another time and place?
Silhouette, an island in the Seychelles, looks remote and forbidding, its peak
perpetually in the clouds. The only way to get there is by boat. It used to be
a shelter for pirates long ago.One reason for its isolation is because no boat
could get near it for a long, long time because of the coral reef that
surrounds it. There is a pier now making landing much easier. But the boats
cannot reach the island directly. There are rubber dinghies which ferry
visitors from the boat to the pier.
IN THE PAST
The island is just three miles
long and three miles wide. As you alight from the boat, the mountains seem to
peer down. The peak, Mount Dauban, is 780 meters high. The marshes are
overgrown with prickly pears and creepers loom up all around.Hodoul is the
pirate, who made Silhouette his home and is said to have buried his treasure
here. Many believe that the treasure is still there and go to look for it.Silhouette
used to be the favourite resort of pirates, especially those driven out of the
Caribbean in the 18 century.This was their base and from here they operated and
looted traders sailing along this route. In the marshes is a mausoleum with
marble columns which belonged to the Dauban family who once owned this island.Coconut
palms and cinnamon trees cover the island. Copra is the main industry here and
the main livelihood of the 300 or so people who live here.
They also grow coffee, avocados,
cinnamon, tobacco and bigarades, a tiny fruit which tastes like bitter orange.Close
to the pier landing is La Passe’s main square, shaded by takamaka and bread
fruit trees. Because no grains grow in the sandy island breadfruit forms an
important part of their diet. The fruit is boiled or baked first and then
either mashed or fried like potatoes.Silhouette is a place for nature lovers
and for those who love adventure. Two tracks join the island from north to
south. There are no proper roads, no cars, no post office and no police
station! And of course no mobile phones or iPads!All around is silence and feel
as if you must only whisper and never speak loudly! There is a rough track
through the equatorial forest but it could be unsafe to venture there without a
local guide.Apart from its scenic beauty what makes Silhouette really special
is its eerie and unshakable air of mystery.
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